Details

A charismatic, sporty and rare early stainless-steel wristwatch from the famous Swiss watch brand Patek Philippe, founded in 1839. Production period: 2006–2009. Stainless steel case, diameter 40.5mm, thickness 12.2mm, screw-down crown, sapphire caseback. Dark blue with grey hue sunburst and gradient (so-called fumé) dial, with horizontal grooves, applied luminous white gold indexes, double sunken sub-dial with fine circular grooves, luminous white gold hands. Caliber CH 28‑520 C, self-winding with 21k gold rotor, 55-hour power reserve, marked by the Poinçon de Genève quality seal. Functions – indication of time in hours and minutes, flyback chronograph with central seconds hand and concentric 30-minute and 12-hour counters at 6 o’clock, date aperture at 3 o’clock. Stainless steel Nautilus bracelet with triple folding clasp.

Lot essay

In 2006, to commemorate the 30th anniversary of Nautilus – the first Patek Philippe sports watch – the brand introduced several new references. These included Ref. 5711, a new version of the original Nautilus ‘Jumbo’; the date and moonphase Ref. 5712; and – for the first time in the Nautilus collection – the automatic chronograph Ref. 5980 in steel, the present reference. The Ref. 5980 watch was powered by Patek Philippe’s first in-house self-winding chronograph caliber CH 28-520, which opened up a new alternative for customers of the brand. Thus, sports automatic chronographs suitable for everyday wear appeared in the collection for the first time, becoming a welcome addition to the brand’s collectible high-end manual-winding chronographs of a traditional design. Furthermore, in 2010 the brand added the black-dial Ref. 5980/1A-014 with a distinctive date indicator featuring a black background, while the previous Ref. 5980/1A-001 remained in regular production. In 2014, the 5980 in stainless steel was discontinued and replaced by the stainless-steel Ref. 5990 with an additional second time zone complication, itself discontinued in 2021.

The present example is from the early production period of Ref. 5980/1A-001, when the brand marked its movements with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality seal. In 2009, Patek Philippe announced that it would be phasing out the Poinçon de Genève in favour of marking their own, even more stringent, quality standards with the Patek Philippe quality seal. According to available information, this modification turned out to be the only significant change to reference 5980/1A-001, whose production is split into two periods – this information adds details to the history of the reference and undoubtedly increases its value as a collectible.

The present example is from the early production period of Ref. 5980/1A-001, when the brand marked its movements with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality seal.

An intriguing feature of this example that we noticed is the near-monochrome anthracite colouring of the dial, with a distinct bluish tint to the classic Nautilus dial that can be felt in certain lighting conditions. This colouring is present on some of the Nautilus Chronograph steel examples, adding to the attractiveness of the present lot and providing a possible direction for research into the evolution and varieties of this reference, something sure to appeal to collectors.

In our opinion, the availability of this reference on the secondary market shows the desire of sellers to hold their position on the market. Therefore, a significant revaluation is currently taking place. Only an auction sale contributes to the establishment of a fair value. In any case, we consider this watch to be one of the best modern luxury chronographs. It is not only a perfect collector’s item, but also an investment.

Reasons to bid

Nowadays, due to the incredible popularity of Patek Philippe Nautilus watches, Ref. 5980/1A-001 (along with several other Nautilus Chronograph references) is seeing a fabulous increase in prices in the previously worn watch market, indicating significant interest in this item as a collectible and as an investment. The stainless-steel Nautilus Chronograph ‘Poinçon de Genève’ Ref. 5980/1A-001, in the original reference’s execution type, is a charismatic, important and rare complicated mechanical watch from a world-famous watch brand, the market leader in haute horlogerie and complicated timepieces. The traditional combination of complications is the tour de force of the Genevan brand. The caliber is executed with Patek Philippe’s impeccable technical workmanship and exquisite artisanal finishing of all parts, confirmed by the presence of the Poinçon de Genève quality seal. The equally high-end finishing of the case and integral bracelet, and the notable design, undoubtedly make this lot even more attractive.