An impressive, sporty and rare stainless steel and rose gold wristwatch from the famous Swiss watch brand Patek Philippe, founded in 1839. Production period: 2013–2021. Stainless steel and 18k rose gold case, diameter 40.5mm, thickness 12.2mm, screw-down crown, sapphire caseback. Blue sunburst and gradient (so-called fumé) relief dial with applied luminous rose gold indexes, double sunken sub-dial with fine circular grooves, luminous rose gold hands. Caliber CH 28-520 C/522, self-winding with 21k gold rotor, 55-hour power reserve, marked with the Patek Philippe seal. Functions – indication of time in hours and minutes, flyback chronograph with central seconds hand and concentric 30-minute and 12-hour counters at 6 o’clock, date aperture at 3 o’clock. Stainless steel and 18k rose gold Nautilus bracelet with the first-generation triple folding clasp.

Lot essay

In 2006, to commemorate the 30th anniversary of Nautilus, the first Patek Philippe sports watch, the brand introduced several new references. These included Ref. 5711, a new version of the original Nautilus ‘Jumbo’; the date and moonphase Ref. 5712; and – for the first time in the Nautilus collection – the automatic chronograph Ref. 5980 in steel. The Ref. 5980 watch was powered by Patek Philippe’s first in-house self-winding chronograph caliber CH 28-520, which opened up a new alternative for customers of the brand. Thus, sports automatic chronographs suitable for everyday wear appeared in the collection for the first time, becoming a welcome addition to the brand’s collectible high-end manual-winding chronographs of a traditional design. Furthermore, the 5980 in stainless steel was discontinued in 2014.

Patek Philippe officially announced the present stainless steel and rose gold reference 5980/1AR-001 in April 2013. The watch in this execution is positioned between the sporty and outwardly modest steel models and the unrestrainedly luxurious and large all-gold Nautilus Chronographs. We find the combination of the three shades – the cool metallic sheen of stainless steel, the warm tones of rose gold and the Patek Philippe Nautilus signature blue sunburst dial – refreshing and fantastical, creating a category of its own, hence the moniker “Blue Rose”, which, in our opinion, best describes the unique feeling of this watch.

Its production span, which started in 2013, saw the brand reveal a significant modification of Nautilus bracelet in 2021. This concerned the execution of the bracelet, the first version of which was marked A384IAP (as in the present example) and featured a one-piece clasp top cover part engraved with a Calatrava cross. According to available information this earlier version of the bracelet was discontinued in 2021, replaced by a second design, without the top cover part. As such, the present bracelet clasp version is currently out of production, which definitely boosts the watch’s attraction as a collectible.

Patek Philippe Nautilus signature blue sunburst dial – refreshing and fantastical, creating a category of its own, hence the moniker “Blue Rose”, which, in our opinion, best describes the unique feeling of this watch.

Ref. 5980/1AR-001 is still in the brand’s catalogue. In our opinion, the availability of this reference on the secondary market shows the desire of sellers to hold their position on the market. Therefore, a significant revaluation is currently taking place. Only an auction sale contributes to the establishment of a fair value. In any case, we consider this watch to be one of the best modern luxury chronographs. It is not only a perfect collector’s item, but also an investment.

Reasons to bid

Nowadays, due to the incredible popularity of Patek Philippe Nautilus watches, Ref. 5980/1AR-001 is seeing a fabulous increase in prices in the previously worn watch market, indicating significant interest in this item as a collectible and as an investment. The Nautilus Chronograph ‘Blue Rose’ Ref. 5980/1AR-001 is an impressive, important and rare complicated mechanical watch from a world-famous watch brand, the market leader in haute horlogerie and complicated timepieces. The traditional combination of complications is the tour de force of the Genevan brand. The caliber is executed with Patek Philippe’s impeccable technical workmanship and exquisite artisanal finishing of all parts, confirmed by the presence of the Patek Philippe Seal. The equally high-end finishing of the case and integral bracelet, and the notable design, undoubtedly make this lot even more attractive.