An unusual, fine and attractive white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch created by the H. Moser & Cie. brand, established in 1828. Reference launched in 2015, present example produced in 2016. Case in 18k white gold, diameter 40.8mm, 11.1mm thick, sapphire caseback. Sunburst gradient blue fumé dial, applied baton indexes. Caliber HMC 341, hand-wound, power reserve up to 168 hours. Functions – indication of time in hours and minutes, small seconds hand at 6 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, perpetual calendar with date in aperture at 3 o’clock, month indicator with a central small arrow hand representing the month in the 12 hour indexes, leap year indicator on the movement’s rear side. Grey leather strap, 18k white gold H. Moser & Cie. double folding clasp.

Lot essay

Perpetual calendar watches are of great importance for the modern H. Moser & Cie. brand. The history of this watch brand began in 1828, with the company disappearing in 1979 only to be brought back to life in 2005. One of the central timepieces of the inaugural collection of the relaunched brand was the innovative perpetual calendar Perpetual 1, so-called ‘flash calendar’, developed for the brand by independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler in 2003–2005. Many watch collectors still associate Andreas Strehler with the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar watch. The design of this calendar mechanism was totally different from the traditional perpetual calendar, and had the practical advantage of the possibility of setting the date and month forwards or backwards via the crown at any time, without risk of damaging the movement. The Perpetual 1 had a distinctive, clear and uncluttered dial with a large date display in the aperture, a small central hand for month indication, with a leap year indicator located on the back of the caliber. This gave a new and unusual look to the perpetual calendar, the dial of which is usually overloaded with scales and indicators – the Perpetual 1’s laconic design is still used in every perpetual calendar of H. Moser & Cie., it being the hallmark of the brand.

To a large extent, the attractiveness of this lot is increased by the fact H. Moser & Cie. provides a modern and up-to-date alternative to traditional perpetual calendars.

Additionally, another invention of Andreas Strehler is embodied in the watch – his double pull crown system, an ingenious time-setting mechanism. It is designed like a ballpoint pen button: the crown is fully pulled out the first time to set the date and only when pulled out a second time in full can the time be set, avoiding accidental readjustment of the correct time.

The present reference launched in 2015, and is characterized by the brand’s signature smoky (fumé) and sunburst blue dial, retaining the typical and recognizable design of the original Perpetual 1. The caliber is beautifully finished, with bevelled bridges decorated with notably wide (a H. Moser & Cie. specialty) Côtes de Genève stripes, five large screwed gold chatons, and engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo and a heraldic shield.

Reasons to bid

A combination of neo-classical and highly attractive design with a clear and uncluttered dial, unique and unusual perpetual calendar function and mechanics and high-end workmanship characterizes the present reference. To a large extent, the attractiveness of this lot is increased by the fact H. Moser & Cie. provides a modern and up-to-date alternative to traditional perpetual calendars. If we consider collecting perpetual calendars, then this watch seems to be a real must-have. Therefore, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue Ref. 1341-0207 would be a fine and desirable purchase for the collector looking for a rare and complicated mechanical watch, made by a small independent watchmaking brand and eminent producer of unconventional and spectacular watches.