An extremely rare, elegant and attractive highly complicated platinum wristwatch of the famous Swiss watch brand Vacheron Constantin, founded in 1755. Estimated production period: 1995–2000. Case made of platinum 950, diameter 38mm, 12mm thick, signed crown and rectangular chronograph pushpieces, solid platinum 950 caseback with brand logo and case number engraved, perpetual calendar correctors at 1, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock. White matt silvered ‘sigma’ dial with recessed subsidiary dials, white gold hands and applied white gold baton indexes, minute/seconds markers around the elevated outer rim. Caliber 1136QP, self-winding with a 18k gold rotor, power reserve up to 40 hours, entirely protected by a soft-iron antimagnetic screen. Functions – indication of time in hours and minutes, small seconds hand at 6 o’clock, chronograph with central seconds hand, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock, perpetual calendar with indicators for the date at 3 o’clock, the day of the week at 9 o’clock, the 48-month indication with leap years at 12 o’clock, and the moonphase display at 6 o’clock. Vacheron Constantin black leather strap, Vacheron Constantin half-Maltese-cross-shaped platinum 950 pin buckle.
Reference 49005 is definitely a significant achievement of Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking artistry. First launched in 1992, this highly complicated reference combined a perpetual calendar, displaying the date, day of the week, month, and leap year cycle continuously, accounting for leap years, with a moonphase display and chronograph function. The self-winding caliber 1136QP was housed in a fine and elegant platinum or rose gold case. The reference was discontinued circa 2000 with the launch of the subsequent chronograph perpetual calendar hand-wound reference 47112 of the Malte collection. According to The Hour Lounge, in total for the production period approximately 500 pieces in rose gold and fewer than 300 pieces in platinum were released.
The present example is exceptional for its attention to detail. Especially notable are the classic round case with a rounded double-stepped (‘double pomme’) bezel, neat straight lugs and a dial that in itself is a masterpiece of watchmaking art. In chronograph perpetual calendar watches, there is always a significant problem of organising the space on the dial in order to place all the numerous indicators as conveniently as possible without loss of information – in Ref. 49005, there are a total of ten indicators, if we include the three central hands. The dial of Ref. 49005 is organised very much like that of a complex traditional pocket watch with the same functions, giving this undeniably contemporary watch the allure of the spirit of centuries-old traditional watchmaking.
With a 38mm diameter case, the watch emanates the appeal of centuries-old watchmaking traditions.
The vast majority of 49005 models with a platinum or rose gold case were offered with a smooth matt silver-plated white dial or orange-pink (salmon) guilloché dial, with some rose gold examples featuring a black guilloché dial. The dial is set with white gold polished hour and minute hands, white gold baton and semisphere appliques and blackened counter hands. The finishing of these elements is excellent, all made of solid gold, which is confirmed by the presence of sigma markings – the corresponding inscription “σ Swiss Made σ” is located at the bottom of the dial.
The self-winding caliber 1136QP of the present reference was developed on the basis of a modified Frédéric Piguet 1185 column-wheel movement-blank, with an additional perpetual calendar complication module based on a kit from the Dubois Dépraz factory, a long-term partner and supplier of Vacheron Constantin. Currently, self-winding watches with a chronograph and perpetual calendar complications have been discontinued by the brand, which undoubtedly adds to the attractiveness of the present lot.
Reasons to bid
The Vacheron Constantin Les Complications Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 49005/000P-7622 is an extremely rare and attractive highly complicated perpetual calendar and chronograph platinum watch from a world-famous watch brand, one of the market leaders in haute horlogerie and complicated timepieces. The undoubted advantage of the present watch is the combination of the outstanding technical characteristics of its caliber 1136QP, one of the best self-winding chronograph and perpetual calendar movements of the era, and of the neat classical design, which is particular to Vacheron Constantin’s watches. With a 38mm diameter case, the watch emanates the appeal of centuries-old watchmaking traditions. Nevertheless, at the same time it is well suited for both casual and formal wear as a comfortable high-end self-winding daily wearer.