lot 03

Breguet

La Tradition

Estimate CHF 5 000 / CHF 7 000
Starting bid CHF 5 000

Hammer price CHF 14 000
Total bids 46
Buyer’s premium will not be charged

Specification

CaseFluted yellow gold case 750/1000 with a sapphire caseback, polished bezel
StrapBlack Alligator leather strap, original yellow gold pin buckle
DialOpenworked dial, with engine turned silver time display at 12 o'clock
MovementRhodium-plated hand-wound movement, with a main spring barrel in the center, power reserve indication on caseback, blued screws, Breguet hairspring
Cal.507DR
Ref.7027
Case No.3138 V
D=38mm

Condition report

Case:Good, signs of wear
Strap:Good, signs of wear
Dial:Mint condition
Movement:All functions working properly
Amplitude (Dial on top/Lift angle 52):Approx 270°
Accuracy (Dial on top):Approx +10 sec/day
Box:Yes
Papers:Yes

Details 

A charismatic, unusual and rare yellow gold wristwatch of the famous Swiss watch brand Breguet, founded in 1775. Estimated production span: 2005–2015. Case made of 18k yellow gold, diameter 37mm, thickness 11.8mm, opened dial with off-centred solid-gold silvered guilloché sub-dial at 12 o’clock, blued-steel Breguet hands, sapphire caseback. Hand-wound caliber 507DR, straight grinded steel pare-chute flat spring, blued-steel screws, power reserve up to 50 hours. Functions – indication of time in hours and minutes, power reserve indicator both on the dial and on the reverse. Black leather strap with Breguet 18k yellow gold pin buckle. 

Lot essay 

The Breguet Tradition 7027 was launched in 2005. The peculiarity of this watch is the reversed layout of the caliber, in which the dial with the hour and minute hands, and the balance unit with the gear train are both located on the caliber’s dial side, while in the traditional scheme the balance unit with the gear train are installed on the reverse side of the movement. Abraham-Louis Breguet used a reversed layout in his montre à tact (tactile) pocket watch, invented by him in 1799, oftentimes placing a small time-indicating dial directly onto the movement. Normally, the dial was concealed under the case cover, but the owner of the watch had the opportunity to set the exact time looking at this dial with the case cover opened. 

As for the present reference, the development of the caliber 507DR was undertaken by Breguet in the early 2000s with a different purpose – to reproduce in a wristwatch the beautiful symmetrical arrangement of the tactile and so-called montre de souscription calibers, originally designed and produced by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the founder of the brand. In particular, this is why the Tradition 7027’s balance pivot isn’t set into one of the industry-standard shockproof devices, but into a pare-chute shockproof system with an elastic flat spring that holds the cap jewel of the balance pivot. The pare-chute shockproof system is believed to have been invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet for pocket watches around 1790. It should also be noted that the Tradition 7027 has been fitted throughout its production span with another Breguet invention, the Breguet overcoil spiral, an excellent (and traditional) means of maintaining isochronism in high-end mechanical watches. 

The charismatic, memorable and instantly recognisable appearance with traditional aesthetics, closely linked to the heritage and personality of Abraham-Louis Breguet, with a caliber open on the dial side and upward-shifted hour and minute hands, undoubtedly adds to the appeal of this lot.

Reference 7027 was the first of the Tradition collection, which was later formed on the basis of this design. Early models were fitted with 37mm yellow gold (like the present example) or white gold cases (Ref. 7027BB/11/9V6), while rose gold models were later also released. The 7027 is currently produced only in rose gold, with a ruthenium-plated movement and a black dial (Ref. 7027BR/G9/9V6). All other references have been discontinued. The present Ref. 7027BA/11/9V6, with its 18k yellow gold case and silver-plated hour-minute sub-dial, has a very special all-gold look. It is equipped with a movement with bridges finished with yellow gold plating, which, together with the yellow gold case and the signature silver-plated and guilloché dial, creates a golden background with silvery white reflections, against which the blued-steel parts stand out beautifully – the Breguet ‘pomme’ hour and minute hands, power reserve indicator hand, and screws. 

In addition, this eye-catching design is often credited to the influence of the late Nicholas G. Hayek, who took over the brand after its acquisition by the Swatch Group and led it until his death in 2010. The Tradition is one of the brand’s most prominent new designs in the modern era, and this will no doubt always be associated with the charismatic personality of Mr. Hayek Sr. Purists most appreciate the initial release, the 37mm hand-wound reference 7027, and especially the present – original – version in yellow gold with a silvered dial. 

According to our research, throughout its production span the present Ref. 7027BA/11/9V6 was produced almost unchanged, the only variation known and found by us is the various clichés used for pad printing of the chapter ring on the dial. There is a variety with a narrow Roman numeral X on four markers, and a variety with a wide X, as in the present example. The numbering of watches of the aforementioned two types does not allow us to make an assumption about the periods of their release. We believe that we are talking about two types of clichés used in production. 

Reasons to bid 

The present reference in particular, and the Tradition 7027 models in general, are fine collectibles, and their value will undoubtedly only increase as almost all references, including the present, have been discontinued by the brand. Therefore, the Breguet Tradition ‘Wide X’ Ref. 7027BA/11/9V6 would be a fine purchase for a collector, who will receive a charismatic, unusual and rare mechanical watch from a world-famous traditional watch brand, one of the undoubted leaders in the haute horlogerie watch market. The unique and branded design is completed by impeccable technical workmanship and exquisite artisanal finishing of the rare opened movement, enriched by several inventions of the brand’s founder. The charismatic, memorable and instantly recognisable appearance with traditional aesthetics, closely linked to the heritage and personality of Abraham-Louis Breguet, with a caliber open on the dial side and upward-shifted hour and minute hands, undoubtedly adds to the appeal of this lot.