lot 09

Patek Philippe

Nautilus Chronograph Date

Estimate CHF 100 000 / CHF 200 000
Starting bid CHF 100 000

Hammer price CHF 150 000
Total bids 14
All prices do not include 24% Premium


CaseRose gold case 750/1000 in porthole design with sapphire caseback
StrapDark brown alligator leather strap with original rose gold folding clasp
DialDark brown dial with applied luminescent indices, 60 seconds, 30 minutes, and 12 hour counters, date at 3 o'clock
MovementRhodium-plated automatic movement with solid gold rotor, column wheel Flyback chronograph
Cal.CH28-520 C
Movement No.6395774
Case No.7322712
D=40.5 mm

Condition report

Case:Good, signs of wear
Strap:Good, signs of wear
Dial:Very good, mint condition
Movement:Very good, all functions working properly
Amplitude (Dial on top/Lift angle 52):290 degrees
Accuracy (Dial on top):+3 sec/day


An impressive, charismatic and rare rose gold sporty wristwatch from the famous Swiss watch brand Patek Philippe, founded in 1839. Purchase date: 2020. 18k rose gold case, diameter 40.5mm, thickness 12.2mm, screw-down crown, sapphire caseback. Dark-brown sunburst and gradient (so-called fumé) dial with applied luminous rose gold indexes, double sunken sub-dial with fine circular grooves and silvered white ring, luminous rose gold hour and minute hands. Caliber CH 28‑520 C, self-winding with 21k gold rotor, 55-hour power reserve, marked with the Patek Philippe seal. Functions – indication of time in hours and minutes, flyback chronograph with central seconds hand and concentric 30-minute and 12-hour counters at 6 o’clock, date aperture at 3 o’clock. Patek Philippe dark-brown leather strap with 18k rose gold Nautilus triple folding clasp.

Lot essay

In 2006, to commemorate the 30th anniversary of Nautilus, the first Patek Philippe sports watch, the brand introduced several new references. These included Ref. 5711, a new version of the original Nautilus ‘Jumbo’; the date and moonphase Ref. 5712; and – for the first time in the Nautilus collection – the automatic chronograph Ref. 5980 in steel. The Ref. 5980 watch was powered by Patek Philippe’s first in-house self-winding chronograph caliber CH 28-520, which opened up a new alternative for customers of the brand. Thus, sports automatic chronographs suitable for everyday wear appeared in the collection for the first time, becoming a welcome addition to the brand’s collectible high-end manual-winding chronographs of a traditional design. Furthermore, the 5980 in stainless steel was discontinued in 2014, being replaced by the stainless-steel Ref. 5990 with additional second time zone complication, itself discontinued in 2021.

The present Ref. 5980R-001, along with Ref. 5980/1R-001 on a bracelet, which was launched three years later, are the only chronographs in the history of the Nautilus collection made of rose gold.

Patek Philippe officially announced the present rose gold and leather strap reference 5980R-001 in 2010 – the first variation of the original stainless-steel Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980 and the first Nautilus Chronograph with a leather strap. With a case in 18k rose gold on a dark-brown leather strap, it is eye-catching, charismatic and luxurious, showing the characteristic features of the famous 1976 Nautilus design of Gérald Genta.

The present Ref. 5980R-001, along with Ref. 5980/1R-001 on a bracelet, which was launched three years later, are the only chronographs in the history of the Nautilus collection made of rose gold. This is a remarkably small number compared with the number of rose gold references produced by other brands in the luxury sport watch genre. The situation on the market is such that Patek Philippe cannot (and apparently does not want to) produce enough to meet existing demand. Official retail prices are lower than those that have developed for pre-owned luxury watches. The situation could be considered absurd if it were not for the fact we are talking about Patek Philippe. This is Patek Philippe. This is their way.

The Nautilus collection currently has a handful of models on a leather strap, including, in addition to reference 5980R-001, Refs. 5726 and 5712 (two versions). The Nautilus on a leather strap bestows a distinct look and feel of exclusivity as Patek Philippe never creates references on a leather strap by simply replacing the bracelet. Each of these references is unique, with its own history and fans. And besides, reference 5980R-001 promises excellent collectible prospects.

Reasons to bid

Nowadays, due to the incredible popularity of Patek Philippe Nautilus watches, Ref. 5980R-001 is seeing a fabulous increase in prices in the pre-owned luxury watch market, indicating significant interest in this item as a collectible and as an investment. The Nautilus Chronograph Date Ref. 5980R-001 is an impressive, luxurious and rare complicated mechanical watch from a world-famous watch brand, the market leader in haute horlogerie and complicated timepieces. The self-winding caliber CH 28‑520 C is executed with Patek Philippe’s impeccable technical workmanship and exquisite artisanal finishing of all parts, confirmed by the presence of the Patek Philippe Seal. The equally high-end finishing of the case and the notable Gérald Genta design undoubtedly make this lot even more attractive.


The keen collector should note that also offered for purchase in this sale is another 18k rose gold Patek Philippe Nautilus chronograph – the Nautilus Chronograph Date Full Gold Ref. 5980/1R-001 ‘Solid Calatrava’, representing the only pair of rose gold Nautilus Chronograph references of all time.