lot 37

De Bethune

DB25

Estimate CHF 20 000 / CHF 30 000
Starting bid CHF 20 000

Hammer price CHF 44 000
Total bids 12
All prices do not include 24% Premium

Specification

CaseRose gold case 750/1000 with pierced lugs and saphirre caseback
StrapDark green alligator leather strap with original rose gold pin buckle
DialSilvered Dial with roman numerals, blued hands
MovementRhodium-plated automatic movement with 6 days power reserve
Ref.DB25svARS1
Movement No.2024.814
Case No.011
D=40 mm
Year2019

Condition report

Case:Very good, only small signs of wear
Strap:Good, signs of wear
Dial:Very good, mint condition
Movement:Very good, working properly
Amplitude (Dial on top/Lift angle 52):290 degrees
Accuracy (Dial on top):+ 8 sec/day
Box:Yes
Papers:Yes

Details 

An extremely rare, fine and impressive rose gold wristwatch of the Swiss watch brand De Bethune, founded in 2002 by the Italian vintage watch dealer David Zanetta and French watchmaker Denis Flageollet. Purchase year: 2019. Case in 18k rose gold, diameter 40mm, lugs of a hollowed design, white silver-plated dial with central zone decorated by ‘lotus’ guilloché motif, raised chapter ring with pad-printed Roman numerals, open-worked De Bethune blued hands, sapphire caseback. Self-winding caliber DB2024.803, double barrel and 6-day power reserve. Functions – indication of time in hours and minutes. Black leather strap with De Bethune pin buckle in 18k rose gold. Numbered edition. De Bethune reports only 21 pieces made since 2013. 

Lot essay 

References DB25SVARS1 in rose gold and DB25SVAWS1 in white gold were launched in 2013 as the first time-only models of the ‘hollowed lugs’ DB25 collection and simplified versions of the 44mm Ref. DB25SVARMRS1 and Ref. DB25SVARMWS1 of 2013, which featured power reserve indication, and of the similar previous references DB25RS1 and DB25WS1, launched in 2007. The self-winding models of the DB25 collection are powered by the caliber DB2024, which is De Bethune’s first in-house self-winding caliber, developed in 2006–2007. 

We should note that time-only watches are rare in De Bethune’s collection, which mainly features models with additional complications.

The DB2024 caliber, visible through the sapphire caseback of the present example, incorporates an impressive range of patented and exclusive De Bethune features and inventions. The self-winding system is based on a central titanium rotor with a heavy segment in platinum, which is protected by a spectacular central shock-absorber system with 12 ruby jewels on four metallic petals. The balance in blued titanium with platinum weights is of a branded design, while the unique triple shock resistance system with flat steel fixing springs and a blued horizontal bridge protects the balance shaft’s pivots. This is also an invention of De Bethune, along with a hairspring with flat terminal curve. The caliber has in total 53 jewels, and a power reserve up to 6 days. 

The present reference DB25SVARS1 in rose gold was introduced in 2013 and discontinued in 2020, when the replacement Ref. DB25VRS3 DB25 Starry Varius with hand-wound caliber DB2005 was introduced. We should note that time-only watches are rare in De Bethune’s collection, which mainly features models with additional complications. We should also note that the present DB25 Ref. DB25SVARS1 watch belongs to the very few models in the De Bethune collection that can be described as classical in their entirety. This is shown by its very classic round rose gold case, crown at the traditional 3 o’clock position, and a silver-plated guilloché dial with blued open-worked hands, whose design origins can be clearly seen in A.-L. Breguet’s ‘pomme’ hands, with Roman numerals pad-printed in high relief on a raised chapter ring. High-end finishes are defining features of the case and dial parts, enhancing the perceived value of the watch. 

The present DB25 Ref. DB25SVARS1 watch belongs to the very few models in the De Bethune collection that can be described as classical in their entirety.

The hollowed lugs of the case seem to be the only deviation from the classic image, giving a hint of the non-classical, rather avant-garde design of the movement. The design of the DB2024 caliber is definitely futuristic: in addition to the features already mentioned, you should pay attention to the three-quarter plate with matte abrasive blasting and straight-grinded stiffeners, the central open-worked blued titanium and platinum rotor, and an abundance of details made from blued titanium. 

Reasons to bid 

The DB25 Ref. DB25SVARS1 would be an extremely attractive purchase for the collector and De Bethune watchmaking expertise aficionado, with an opportunity to obtain an extremely rare, beautiful and elegant self-winding mechanical wristwatch from this famous independent watch brand, one of the undoubted leaders in the haute horlogerie watch market. The combination of impeccable technical workmanship, an important self-winding caliber, exquisite artisanal finishing of the case and movement, and a dial of a classical and yet at the same time peculiarly attractive appearance with a flat central zone, decorated by a ‘lotus’ guilloché motif, raised chapter ring and blued open-worked hands of De Bethune’s ‘pomme Breguet’ design version, undoubtedly adds to the appeal of this lot.