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lot 28

Harry Winston

Opus V Felix Baumgartner

Estimate CHF 50 000 / CHF 100 000
Starting bid CHF 50 000
Hammer price CHF 105 000
Total bids 10
All prices do not include 24% Premium

Specification

CaseRose gold case 750/1000, with movable crown guard, service indicator on the caseback, limited edition number 10/45
StrapBlack alligator, with rose gold pin buckle
DialThree small blocks arranged like satellites within a three-dimensional system, since each block carries four numerals, two rotational axes are required to display all 12 hours, the first central axis enables each hour numeral to "move past" the minute counter while driving the retrograde hand gliding over a 120° graduated scale, while the second reveals the four numerals in accordance with first rotation, day and indicator, power reserve indicator
MovementMechanical off-centered movement with satellite hour display and retrograde minute hand moving over a 120° counter, power-reserve indicator (120 hours), day and night indication
Case No.107714
D=45 mm

Condition report

Case:Good, small sign of wear
Strap:Good, small sign of wear
Dial:Mint condition
Movement:All functions working properly
Amplitude (Dial on top/Lift angle 52):320 degrees
Accuracy (Dial on top):+5 s/day
Box:No
Papers:No

Details 

A very rare, unusual and important rose gold limited-edition complicated wristwatch of the Harry Winston ‘Rare Timepieces’ watch division, active since 1989. Limited edition launched in 2005. Case made of 18k rose gold, diameter 50mm, eccentric three-dimensional dial with satellite indication system, solid gold caseback with sapphire window of service indicator. Hand-wound caliber HW1026 in Arcap alloy, power reserve up to 122 hours. Functions – three-dimensional satellite hour display, retrograde minutes by retractable pointer, power reserve and day/night indicators, service indicator on the caseback. Black leather strap with Harry Winston 18k rose gold pin buckle. Limited edition of 45 pieces. 

Lot essay 

The history of this watch is closely related to Maximilian Büsser, founder of the MB&F brand, the man who managed Harry Winston’s ‘Rare Timepieces’ division from 1998. He ensured the watches of this brand came to be highly ranked in the industry. The well-known Opus series, launched in 2001, was his first highly successful project and one which radically changed the attitude towards the brand among industry specialists, collectors and connoisseurs. According to the ideas of Büsser, the Opus project was based on a collaboration of Harry Winston with prominent independent watchmakers who wanted to create unusual, creative designs for the brand. 

The history of this watch is closely related to Maximilian Büsser, founder of the MB&F brand, the man who managed Harry Winston’s ‘Rare Timepieces’ division from 1998.

Felix Baumgartner, a third-generation Swiss watchmaker and cofounder of the Urwerk brand, was the creator of the Opus V watch. He met Büsser in 2003 at the Baselworld exhibition while showing his new UR-103 satellite indication watch. It was this watch that was chosen as the starting point in the development of Opus V design. However, Felix Baumgartner actually did the development from scratch, inventing a new time display system which had never been seen before, with three small cubes, each with four numbers arranged like satellites in a three-dimensional rotating system that turns and revolves to show the current hour, with the retractable minute pointer moving over a 120-degree scale. Another invention of Baumgartner for the Opus V was a service indicator, a world first in a wristwatch. Placed on the caseback of the watch, it is intended to inform the owner of when the watch will require maintenance. Situated nearby, also on the caseback, there is an index adjustment screw, allowing the rate of the caliber to be adjusted. 

The design of the Opus V case turned out to be equally unusual. Baumgartner decided to shield the winding crown with a click-spring protector, which opened up like the door of a cool sports car. As was tradition for the Opus series, the Opus V was produced as a limited edition, in 45 examples in 18k rose gold, like the present watch, and 45 in platinum. Ten jewellery pieces were also released, which is to be expected from a brand like Harry Winston: 7 pieces in platinum set with round-cut diamonds, and 3 pieces in platinum set with baguette-cut diamonds, for a total of 100 timepieces. 

The design of the Opus V case turned out to be equally unusual. Baumgartner decided to shield the winding crown with a click-spring protector, which opened up like the door of a cool sports car.

Since the launch of the Opus V project in 2005 at Baselworld, this watch has received a very warm welcome from industry professionals, the press and connoisseurs. The Opus V stands out because it has its own charismatic character, an unprecedented and bold design, as well as complex mechanics with unique functionality. If we consider the entire Opus series as a whole, then the most memorable creations should be recognized as two Opuses – the third and fifth, the latter being the present example. Opus 3 had a difficult fate, despite the enthusiastic reaction of the public at the time of launch. It had to await the replacement of the watchmaker, the newly carried out design and the production of the entire limited series, which all dragged on for many years. In this sense, Harry Winston had no problems with the Opus V, with the project completed on time. The Opus V is also notable because it was to be the last creation of the Opus series under the management of Maximilian Büsser who left Harry Winston in 2005 to establish his own watch brand, MB&F. This undoubtedly makes this model a significant piece possessing great collectible value. 

Reasons to bid 

The Harry Winston Opus V would appear to be an excellent purchase, a real must-have for the collector who desires an extremely fine, very rare and important limited-edition complicated wristwatch from a world-famous brand, one of the important newcomers to the haute horlogerie watch market. The combination of impeccable technical workmanship, ingenuity and its unusual and recognizable design, adds to the appeal of this lot. 

The keen collector should note that also offered for purchase in this sale is another rare and important 18k rose gold Harry Winston Maximilian Büsser period watch – the Excenter Tourbillon Limited Edition Ref. 200-MMT40RL.T, created by Peter Speake-Marin, a talented independent watchmaker. Together with the present lot, they represent the pinnacles of mechanical watchmaking art, created for Harry Winston by the most influential independent watchmakers under the supervision of Maximilian Büsser.