A very fine and unusual military-styled rose gold wristwatch of the famous Swiss watch brand Officine Panerai, of Italian origin, founded in 1860. Estimated production period: 2019–2020. 18k rose gold case, dimensions 42 x 42mm, 10.5mm thick, branded protecting bridge device with fixing lever over the winding crown, sapphire caseback. Black sunburst dial of classic Panerai design with sandwich structure and large luminous linear hour markers and Arabic numerals. Self-winding caliber P.900, power reserve of up to 72 hours. Functions – indication of time in hours and minutes, small seconds hand at 9 o’clock and date window at 3 o’clock. Panerai black rubber strap, Panerai 18k rose gold pin buckle. Limited production, V-series, 500 pieces.
The Luminor Due collection was an endeavour of an Italian-Swiss brand specializing in vintage military-styled masculine watches to expand its range by creating a ‘dress watch’ that could be worn with formal attire such as a tuxedo. The collection was launched in 2016 and included models equipped with hand-wound movements or automatic mini-rotor calibers. However, to better suit the purposes of daily-wearer watches, models with an automatic movement and an efficient full-size rotor were required. This gap was bridged in 2018 with the launch of the new generation of Luminor Due, powered by the Richemont group’s in-house self-winding caliber OPXXXIV, which was of the same architecture as the calibers developed by the group’s Manufacture Horlogère ValFleurier for their other brands, Cartier (caliber 1847 MC), Baume & Mercier (calibers BM-1275 and BM-1375), Roger Dubuis (caliber RD630) and IWC Schaffhausen (32000 caliber family).
An exquisite, stylish and elegant mechanical watch of a piquant ‘military-tuxedo’ design from a world-renowned watch brand
The present reference, PAM01041, was officially introduced at the beginning of 2020. However, it appears the reference had been approved and production had already begun in advance, in 2019, as evidenced by the V series, which is marked by engraving on the caseback. The “OP” designation, which was traditionally used by the brand for marking third-party calibers, was replaced by the standard designation of in-house movements by the beginning of 2019. In this case, instead of OPXXXIV, the caliber is marked as P.900. The brand has not announced any technical modifications.
The PAM01041 is a quite unusual ‘dress watch’ for the brand, with a 42mm case that is 10.5mm thick – a very elegant proportion currently only found in the Luminor Due in the entire Panerai collection. The case of the present watch is fully polished and the dial is decorated with a sunburst finish, a very appropriate feature for a watch that can be worn with a tuxedo.
Reasons to bid
The Panerai Luminor Due 42mm PAM01041 would appear to be a fine purchase for the connoisseur of fine watchmaking, who will obtain an exquisite, stylish and elegant mechanical watch of a piquant ‘military-tuxedo’ design from a world-renowned watch brand, a recognized market leader in vintage- and military-styled timepieces. The undoubted advantage of the present lot is the combination of easily recognizable features of Panerai mastery, the charismatic Luminor case with a branded protecting bridge device with lever over the winding crown, dial of classic Panerai design with a sandwich structure, and the last-generation self-winding caliber with a respectable 3-day power reserve.