An extremely rare, elegant and attractive rose gold highly complicated wristwatch of the famous Swiss watch brand Vacheron Constantin, founded in 1755. Estimated production period: 1995–2000. Case made of 18k rose gold, diameter 38mm, 12mm thick, signed crown and rectangular chronograph pushpieces, solid gold caseback with brand logo and case number engraved, perpetual calendar correctors at 1, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock. Black guilloché sigma dial with recessed subsidiary dials, rose gold hands, rose gold-toned pad-printed inscription markers, and minute/seconds markers around the elevated outer rim. Caliber 1136QP, self-winding with a 18k gold rotor, power reserve up to 40 hours, entirely protected by a soft-iron antimagnetic screen. Functions – indication of time in hours and minutes, small seconds hand at 6 o’clock, chronograph with central seconds hand, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock, perpetual calendar with indicators for the date at 3 o’clock, the day of the week at 9 o’clock, the 48-month indication with leap years at 12 o’clock, and the moonphase display at 6 o’clock. Dark-brown leather strap, Vacheron Constantin half Maltese cross-shaped 18k rose gold triple folding clasp. 

Lot essay 

Reference 49005 is definitely a significant achievement of Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking artistry. First launched in 1992, this highly complicated reference combines a perpetual calendar, displaying the date, day of the week, month, and leap year cycle continuously, accounting for leap years, with a moonphase display and chronograph function. The self-winding Caliber 1136QP is housed in a fine and elegant rose gold or platinum case. It was discontinued circa 2000 with the launch of the subsequent chronograph perpetual calendar hand-wound reference 47112 of the Malte collection. According to The Hour Lounge, in total for the production period there were released approximately 500 pieces in rose gold and fewer than 300 pieces in platinum. 

The present example is exceptional for the attention to detail. Especially notable are the classic round case with a rounded double-stepped (double pomme) bezel, neat straight lugs and a dial that in itself is a masterpiece of watchmaking art. In chronograph perpetual calendar watches, there is always a significant problem of organizing the space on the dial in order to place all the numerous indicators as conveniently as possible without loss of information – in Ref. 49005, there a total of ten indicators, if we will include the three central hands. The dial of Ref. 49005 is organized very much like that of a complex pocket watch with the same functions, giving this undeniably contemporary watch the allure of the spirit of centuries-old traditional watchmaking

This timepiece, manufactured at the end of 1990s, is one of the few Ref. 49005 examples to feature a rose gold case and the rarest black dial with a handmade guilloché decoration.

The vast majority of 49005 models with a platinum or rose gold case were offered with matt silver-plated white or orange-pink (salmon) guilloché dials, while the present rose gold Ref. 49005/000R with black guilloché dial has appeared on the pre-owned watch market extremely rarely and, according to our knowledge, most likely only once at auction. 

The self-winding caliber 1136QP of the present reference was developed on the basis of a modified Frédéric Piguet 1185 column-wheel movement-blank, with an additional perpetual calendar complication module based on a kit from the Dubois Dépraz factory, a long-term partner and supplier of Vacheron Constantin. Currently, self-winding watches with a chronograph and perpetual calendar complications have been discontinued, which undoubtedly adds to the attractiveness of the present lot. 

The dial is set with rose gold polished baguette appliques and rose gold hands. The finishing of these elements is excellent, all made of solid gold, which is confirmed by the presence of sigma markings – the corresponding inscription “σ Swiss Made σ” is located at the bottom of the dial. 

Reasons to bid 

The Les Complications Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 49005/000R is an extremely rare and attractive rose gold highly complicated watch from a world-famous watch brand, one of the market leaders in haute horlogerie and complicated timepieces. The undoubted advantage of the present watch is the combination of the outstanding technical characteristics of its caliber 1136QP, one of the best self-winding chronograph and perpetual calendar movements of the era, and of the neat classical design, which is particular to Vacheron Constantin’s watches. This timepiece, manufactured at the end of 1990s, is one of the few Ref. 49005 examples to feature a rose gold case and the rarest black dial with a handmade guilloché decoration. It is fitted with a leather strap and a Vacheron Constantin 18k rose gold half Maltese cross-shaped triple folding clasp that significantly increases the perceived value of the watch. With a 38mm diameter case the watch emanates the appeal of centuries-old watchmaking traditions. Nevertheless, at the same time it is well suited for both casual and formal wear as a comfortable high-end self-winding daily wearer. 


The keen collector should note that also offered for purchase in this sale is another rare 18k rose gold Vacheron Constantin watch featuring the highly complicated self-winding caliber 1136QP – the Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 49020-000R-9753. Together with the present lot, they represent the evolution of the chronograph perpetual calendar complication in the Vacheron Constantin collection over the years.