Details 

A very rare, fine and impressive rose gold wristwatch of the Swiss watch brand De Bethune, founded in 2002 by the Italian vintage watch dealer David Zanetta and French watchmaker Denis Flageollet. Estimated production period: 2014–2020. Case in 18k rose gold, diameter 44mm, 10.3mm thick, lugs of a hollowed design, two-tone white and blue dial with blued polished titanium central zone and white enamel chapter ring with painted Arabic numerals, sapphire caseback. Self-winding caliber DB2024, double barrel and 6-day power reserve. Functions – indication of time in hours and minutes. Black leather strap with De Bethune pin buckle in 18k rose gold. Numbered edition. De Bethune reports only 27 pieces made since 2014. 

Lot essay 

The DB25 Midnight Blue Ref. DB25XPARV2 was launched in 2014 as the enlarged (44mm vs. 40mm), white and blue dial version of the DB25 Ref. DB25SVARS1 18k rose gold basic time-only model of the ‘hollowed lugs’ DB25 collection. The basic DB25 Ref. DB25SVARS1 was introduced in 2013. Both were equipped with an automatic caliber DB2024, and discontinued in 2020, when DB25 Starry Varius Ref. DB25VRS3 with hand-wound caliber DB2005 was introduced. We should note that time-only watches are very rare in De Bethune’s collection, which mainly features models with additional functions. 

Time-only watches are very rare in De Bethune’s collection, which mainly features models with additional functions.

We should also note that the De Bethune DB25 Midnight Blue Ref. DB25XPARV2 belongs to the few models in the De Bethune collection that can be described as classical. This is shown by its very classic round rose gold case, crown at the traditional 3 o’clock position, and a two-tone blued titanium and white enamel dial with gold Breguet hands and Arabic numerals on a white enamel chapter ring. High-end finishes are also characteristic of the case and dial parts, enhancing the perceived value of the watch. 

The hollowed lugs of the case seem to be the only deviation from the classic image, giving a hint of the non-classical, rather avant-garde design of the movement. The DB2024 caliber, visible through the sapphire caseback, is an entirely in-house caliber. Having an impressive 6-day power reserve and a rotor with heavy segment in platinum, it was developed in 2007 and embedded with patented and exclusive De Bethune innovations such as a titanium balance wheel with platinum inserts, hairspring with flat terminal curve, and a unique triple shock resistance system with flat steel fixing springs and a blued horizontal bridge. The DB2024 powered watches of the new DB25 and DB22 collections, at that moment just put into production, but in slightly more complicated versions with a power reserve indicator.

De Bethune DB25 Midnight Blue Ref. DB25XPARV2 belongs to the few models in the De Bethune collection that can be described as classical. This is shown by its very classic round rose gold case, crown at the traditional 3 o’clock position, and a two-tone blued titanium and white enamel dial with gold Breguet hands and Arabic numerals on a white enamel chapter ring.

The design of the DB2024 caliber is definitely futuristic: in addition to the features already mentioned, you should pay attention to the three-quarter plate with matte abrasive blasting and straight-grinded stiffeners, the central openworked rotor with a shock-resistant mount with 12 jewels on four shock-absorbing petals, and an abundance of details made from blued titanium. 

Reasons to bid 

The DB25 Midnight Blue Ref. DB25XPARV2 would be an attractive purchase for the collector and De Bethune watchmaking expertise aficionado, with an opportunity to obtain a very rare, beautiful and elegant mechanical watch from this famous independent watch brand, one of the undoubted leaders in the haute horlogerie watch market. The combination of impeccable technical workmanship, an important self-winding caliber, exquisite artisanal finishing of the case and movement, and the special and very rare design of the dial in blued titanium and white enamel chapter ring, undoubtedly adds to the appeal of this lot.