Ineichen could achieve more record-breaking sales when collectors’ pieces by F.P. Journe, Vacheron Constantin
and other top watchmakers go on auction in March 2022.
[ZURICH – FEBRUARY 7, 2022, 12PM CET] - Ineichen Auctioneers’ first auction for the New Year, La Vie en Rose, takes place in Zurich and online on March 12, 2022. There will be up to 50 lots – all watches with rose gold cases – created by esteemed watchmakers Vacheron Constantin, Roger Dubuis, F.P. Journe, Daniel Roth, Cartier, IWC, De Bethune, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Panerai, Girard-Perregaux, A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, and others.
Ineichen hopes to continue its world record-breaking streak with huge interest among collectors in three lots: the F. P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Sincere Limited Edition No. 202-RN, F. P. Journe Octa Calendrier Sincere Limited Edition No. 239-Q, and the Vacheron Constantin Malte Openworked Tourbillon Ref. 30067/000R-8954.
Why the focus on rose gold? The title says it all. The lyrics of Edith Piaf’s famous song, ‘La Vie en Rose’, explore themes of love, romance, and resilience. Covered by artists such as Louis Armstrong (in English) and Lady Gaga (in French), the song was also seen as an anthem of hope when it was released soon after World War II. “After the last two years of upheaval thanks to the pandemic, we are ready to view 2022 through rose-colored spectacles. We are optimistic about the future, which is why we decided to name our March auction La Vie en Rose,” says Ineichen Auctioneers CEO Artemy Lechbinskiy.
Rose gold is a durable and beautiful precious metal, with a unique allure that appeals to the luxury market. More discernible than white gold, and warmer than yellow gold, rose gold is achieved by combining silver, copper and yellow gold. Its shade varies depending on the amount of copper and silver combined with yellow gold.
Estimate: CHF 200,000-300,000
This rare limited-edition complicated wristwatch, first purchased in 2006, features a 40mm X 9.1mm case in 18k rose gold, a black mother-of-pearl dial and silver subdials patterned with Clous de Paris guilloché. It is powered by a thin manual-wound caliber 1499.2 with mainplate and bridges in solid 18k rose gold, and twin independent movement coupled with an aerodynamic resonance system.
Resonance is the physical phenomenon that results from interaction between two independent systems, and is characterized by oscillations with close frequencies. Strong resonance enables both mechanisms to move synchronously. Caliber 1499.2 was the first to utilize the aerodynamic resonance phenomenon and F.P. Journe is the only brand that offers serial production of wristwatches with this feature.
Meanwhile, the power reserve is up to 40 hours. Its indicator on the dial is made in the tradition of 19th-century chronometers. The pointer hand indicates the time elapsed after the complete winding of the mechanism, meaning that it points to zero when fully wound. The Chronomètre à Résonance Sincere Limited Edition is one of the rarest models in the Chronomètre à Résonance line. Only 10 pieces were produced.
Also limited to 10 pieces, this rare model first purchased in 2006 has an 18k rose gold case measuring 38mm x 10.6mm. It features the sought-after black mother-of-pearl dial with silver subdial decoration in Clous de Paris guilloché, and is one of very few timepieces to include an annual calendar complication, automatic winding and five-day power reserve. Its annual calendar function indicates the date via the large central hand and advances automatically for months with 29, 30 and 31 days. In non-leap years (three years out of four) the date should be advanced manually from February 28 to 29 by turning the crown. The date then passes automatically from February, 29 to March, 1.
Soon after its launch, the Octa Calendrier won the Special Jury Award at the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2002.
Since 2004, F. P. Journe movements have been produced from solid 18k pink gold, so that no protective coatings are required to create a flawless and non-patinated finishing of the parts. The caliber 1300.2 is entirely manually decorated with chamfering and polishing, Côtes Circulaires on the bridges, perlage on the mainplate, and a rotor with Grain d’Orge guilloché motif. The watchmaker stopped production of this piece in 2015.
Estimate: CHF 50,000-100,000
Vacheron Constantin, the world’s oldest watch brand in continuous operation since its founding in 1755, designed the Malte Openworked Tourbillon from scratch to get its tonneau-shaped movement to match the 18k rose gold case measuring 36mm x 36mm x 11.80mm. It is a signature feature of superior mechanical wristwatches and a rarity in shaped watches. Production of this piece is estimated to be from 2000 to 2011.
Vacheron Constantin is one of the few watchmaking houses that continues the costly process of producing sophisticated mechanical watches with traditional skeletonization, baroque lines, lots of “air”, the hand-engraved “peacock tail” decorative pattern and meticulous finishing of all components. The Malte Openworked Tourbillon Ref. 30067/000R-8954 is a compelling example of this approach. Another special feature is the caliber 1790SQ, which is one of the best traditionally skeletonized tourbillon movements with flamboyant baroque aesthetics. It’s also the first in-house tourbillon movement created by the brand.
Estimate: CHF 30,000-40,000
This piece features the immediately recognisable three gold bridges that appear in Girard-Perregaux’s tourbillon watches. However, this time they’re visible through the back of the case rather than on the dial side. This is in line with the design of the classic version of the original pocket watch movement, invented by Constant Girard in 1867 and patented in the US in 1884.
In 1889, the brand’s La Esmeralda pocket watch with tourbillon and three gold bridges was awarded a gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition.
Reference 99350 is a very rare variation of the design. The 18k rose gold case measures 43mm x 13.15mm. It displays a light cream dial featuring a world-time complication, and hour and minute feuille hands in rose gold. Only a few pieces were produced annually from 2005 to 2010. The present lot is number 10 in the rose-gold series.
Estimate: CHF 20,000-30,000
The Tortue Monopoussoir is one of the first timepieces from the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) introduced by Cartier in 1998. The CPCP features watches based on historic Cartier designs but equipped with modern mechanical movements, hand-wound and sometimes automatic, supplied by the likes of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Frédéric Piguet, Gérald Genta or Girard-Perregaux. The watches were produced in very limited numbers, and this model is discontinued.
The design of the Tortue Monopoussoir is based on the first wristwatch of this shape created by Louis Cartier in 1912 as well as vintage tortue-shaped single-button chronograph wristwatches produced by the brand in the late 1920s and early 1930s. The shape resembles a turtle standing on four legs.
Watches in this line are equipped with a rare hand-wound movement, caliber 045 MC, developed by THA Èbauche – a collaborative movement manufacture founded in 1996 by independent watchmakers Vianney Halter, Denis Flageollet and François-Paul Journe. This model features the caliber 045MC Mk2 version, which uses only monolithic steel springs (except for the fixing spring of the minute counter). There is no additional bridge. Purchased in 2004, the case of this piece is 18k rose gold, measuring 43mm x 34mm (with lugs) x 10mm.
An e-catalogue containing descriptive notes will be available at ineichen.com. Alternatively, email email@example.com to request a catalogue.
Collectors can register pre-bids and participate in the auction live via the website. Bids can also be made online at invaluable.com, or by phone via +41 44 298 11 44.