lot 51

De Bethune

DB17 Perpetual Calendar in 18k Rose Gold

This lot has a reserve price
Estimate CHF 25 000 / CHF 40 000
Starting bid CHF 25 000
Location
Office, Zurich

Hammer price CHF 46 000
Total bids 12
Buyer’s premium will not be charged

Specification

CaseRound case in 18k rose gold with crown at 3 o'clock, display caseback
StrapBlack alligator leather strap with De Bethune pin buckle in 18k rose gold
DialSilver-white guilloche dial with roman numerals, heat-blued hands, spherical moonphase at 12 o'clock, day at 9 o'clock, month at 3 o'clock, date at 6 o'clock
MovementHand-wound mechanical movement, functions: hours, minutes, day, date, month, spherical moonphase
Ref.DB17WT
Movement No.DB 198-2004
Case No.012
Diameter:43mm
Lug-to-lug48mm
Year2005

Condition report

Case:Very good, minor signs of wear
Strap:Good, signs of wear
Dial:Very good, minor patination and discoloration
Movement:All functions working properly
Amplitude (Dial on top/Lift angle 52):Approx 270°
Accuracy (Dial on top):Approx +30 sec/day
Box:Yes
Papers:Yes

Reasons to Bid

In 2004, just two years after its founding, De Bethune introduced the DB15 perpetual calendar, a landmark creation that showcased the brand’s early technical ambition. Its most celebrated feature is the astronomical moon-phase, accurate to one day every 122 years, expressed through a rotating platinum and blued-steel spherical moon. This sits beneath a traditional perpetual calendar with a discreet leap-year indicator hidden within the largest star of the decorative sub-dial at 12 o’clock. Powering the watch is the in-house Caliber DB2004, De Bethune’s first perpetual calendar movement, featuring the patented four-spoke titanium balance with platinum ogival weights and a self-compensating free-sprung hairspring. The balance is held under a long elastic steel bridge, a precursor to the triple “pare-chute” shock-absorber later developed by Denis Flageollet. With a five-day power reserve, the movement reflects early De Bethune architecture, including the shield-shaped barrel bridge visible through the sapphire back. The DB17 collection, launched in 2005 as an evolution of the DB15, introduced stylistic updates such as a guilloché lotus-pattern dial, a narrower domed chapter ring, wider bezel, and pomme-style hands. Although the DB17 was designed to house the updated Caliber DB2004 with the full triple pare-chute system, the present example instead contains the earlier version of the movement, retaining the long elastic bridge without the later shock-absorption upgrade. This suggests the watch was produced during the transitional phase of the DB17’s development, a period in which De Bethune often used remaining early-generation components. We have not identified other DB17 examples with this configuration, indicating that such pieces are exceedingly rare within the lineage.