lot 23

Jaquet-Droz

Retrograde Quantieme Perpetual Calendar

Estimate CHF 10 000 / CHF 15 000
Starting bid CHF 10 000

Hammer price CHF 12 000
Total bids 7
All prices do not include 24% Premium

Specification

CaseRosegold case 750/1000, sapphire caseback, limited edition number 6/8
StrapBlack alligator strap with original rose gold pin buckle
DialSpectrolite stone dial, with month and leap year indication at 12 o'clock, retrograde date left hand side, small seconds 6 o'clock, retrograde weekday indicator on the left side, all hands blued
Cal.5863.4
Movement No.000292
Case No.J008333
AccessoriesBox + Papers
D=43 mm

Condition report

Case:Good, signs of wear
Strap:Good, small signs of wear
Dial:Very good, mint condition
Movement:Very good, all functions working properly
Amplitude (Dial on top/Lift angle 52):295 degrees
Accuracy (Dial on top):+5 s/day
Box:No
Papers:Yes

Details 

An extremely rare, fine and attractive limited-edition rose gold complication wristwatch from the haute horlogerie Swiss watch brand Jaquet Droz, founded in 1738. Limited edition launch: 2008. Case in 18k rose gold, diameter 43mm, 12.8mm thick. Meteorite dial, applied rose gold screw-fixed frame, central plate silvered, with guilloché Clous de Paris motif. Caliber 5863.4, self-winding, 22k gold rotor with a sunray relief pattern and oval medallion with the brand logo, double-barrel, power reserve up to 68 hours. Perpetual calendar correctors at 1, 8 and 10 o’clock. Functions – indication of time in hours and minutes, small seconds hand at 6 o’clock, perpetual calendar with month indication and leap year in window at 12 o’ clock, retrograde date and retrograde day of the week indicators via serpentine blued hands on opposite sides of the dial. Black leather strap with Jaquet Droz 18k rose gold pin buckle. Limited edition of 8 pieces. 

Brand info 

Jaquet Droz is one of the oldest and most respected watch brands in the world, founded by the Swiss watchmaker Pierre Jaquet Droz in 1738. The brand’s activity was interrupted in 1810. There have been several attempts to revive it since then, the latest, and so far, successful, attempt being the restart of the brand in 1989. This was undertaken by the Bahrain investment company Investcorp, which at that time also owned Breguet, Chaumet, Ebel and Nouvelle Lémania. In 2000, the Jaquet Droz brand was acquired by the Swatch Group, which remains the owner to this day. From 2001 to 2009 the brand was managed by Manuel Emch. He initiated a complete relaunch of the collection, which took place in 2002 and was based on the charismatic design of the Grande Seconde, which has its origins in a pocket watch of 1784 with distinctive dial design with oversized small seconds hand, created by Pierre Jaquet Droz himself. The watches produced during the period of Manuel Emch’s management – from 2002 to 2009 – are, in our opinion, the most interesting in terms of collecting. It was during this period that the present example was produced. 

Lot essay 

A watch with a perpetual calendar is a rarity in the Jaquet Droz collection. Since 2002, only two references have been produced – Ref. J0083, like the present watch, and Ref. J03053 (the Quantième Perpétuel Éclipse, also referred to as the Perpetual Calendar Éclipse) with added moonphase indicator. And both in limited quantities, often limited editions, which, according to the tradition founded by Manuel Emch, are called Numerus Clausus. The first release of the Quantième Perpétuel (Perpetual Calendar) Ref. J008334201 was in 2005, and they were offered in a dial design with an applied screw-fixed frame, the same as in this instance. In 2008, two Quantième Perpétuel Météorite Numerus Claus 8 models were released in 18k rose (the present lot) and white gold. In 2013, the release of Ref. J0083 was discontinued and replaced by the moonphase Quantième Perpétuel Éclipse Ref. J03053, which is still in production. 

There have been only a few cases when watches with a perpetual calendar have been equipped with meteorite dials.

Ref. J03053 perpetual calendar watches are powered by the Jaquet Droz caliber 5863, a self-winding mechanical movement with double barrel, perpetual calendar and a 22-carat gold oscillating weight, developed on the base of a Frédéric Piguet 1150 movement-blank. The vast majority of Jaquet Droz watches are based on the 1150 family, slim, with extended power reserve due to their double-barrel design, and finely finished. The perpetual calendar module is a Frédéric Piguet development as well, with the module called FP58. 

The present lot is one of the rarest Ref. J0083 perpetual calendars, with just 8 pieces made, and according to our knowledge, previously just once has it appeared at auction. The unusual dial, made of rare meteoric iron with pronounced Widmanstätten figures and harmoniously complemented by a rose gold case and an applied screw-fixed rose gold frame, undoubtedly adds to the appeal of this lot. Watches with meteorite dials are quite rare – there have been only a few cases when watches with a perpetual calendar have been equipped with meteorite dials. 

Reasons to bid 

The Jaquet Droz Quantième Perpétuel Météorite Numerus Clausus 8 Ref. J008333204 would appear to be a valuable chance for the collector to purchase an extremely rare perpetual calendar watch of a respectable brand, known for its superb collectible clocks and watches from the 18th century. The attractiveness of the present watch comes from its unique design, excellent and elaborated hand finishing of the case, dial and movement, as well as the rarest combination of a perpetual calendar function and meteorite dial. Its stand-out design is sure to move a person who strives to show independence in creating their own style.