lot 110

Rolex

Explorer II 'Steve McQueen' Ref. 1655 in Stainless Steel

This lot has a reserve price
Estimate CHF 10 000 / CHF 20 000
Starting bid CHF 10 000
Location
Freeport, Zurich

Hammer price CHF 18 000
Total bids 11
Buyer’s premium will not be charged

Specification

CaseRound case in stainless steel with fixed bezel in stainless steel, screw-down crown at 3 o'clock, solid caseback
Bracelet3-link oyster bracelet with folded links, folding clasp, maximum wrist circumference: 19.5cm
DialMatte black dial with white luminous tritium indices, luminous tritium hands, faded orange 24 hour hand, magnified date window at 3 o'clock, signed 'Rolex' at 12 o'clock
MovementAutomatic mechanical movement Cal. 1570, functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date, 24 hour indicator
Cal.1570
Ref.1655
Case No.2734***
Diameter:39mm
Lug-to-lug47mm
YearApproximately 1971

Condition report

Case:Good, signs of wear
Bracelet:Good, signs of wear
Dial:Good, patination and discoloration, strongly faded orange 24 hour hand
Movement:Good, all functions working properly
Amplitude (Dial on top/Lift angle 52):Approximately 270°
Accuracy (Dial on top):Approximately -30 sec/day
Watch only:Yes

Reasons to Bid

Introduced in 1971, the Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655 was originally designed as a professional tool watch for cave explorers who needed to distinguish day from night in environments without natural light. The fixed 24-hour bezel and large orange 24-hour hand allowed the wearer to track AM and PM clearly, an essential feature for speleologists working underground. Although sometimes associated with Steve McQueen, there is no evidence that he ever wore the model; the link remains a collector’s nickname rather than a documented connection. What is certain, however, is that the 1655 represents the first generation of the Explorer II and set the design foundation for all later versions. Over time, the watch has evolved into a versatile sports watch, with later models using the 24-hour hand as a true GMT complication. This particular example features a Mark 1 dial with the distinctive ‘frog foot’ Rolex coronet, a detail that appeals to collectors for its early and characterful print style.